From: zancro	Date: February 9th, 2007 04:55 pm (UTC)		(Link)

I usually jot down one of the camera generated file numbers on the release, then go through those before I change file names and notate as needed.

I think these trail portraits would make an interesting gallery show.

	From: edbook	Date: February 9th, 2007 06:59 pm (UTC)		(Link)

duh, yeah, I knew that was what I should have done at the time, but when I'm photographing people that I'm delaying, I don't have all the ducks in a row and obviously I didn't think of it in a timely manner afterward.

about file names, when I used film I used a numbering system (since the mid 70's) that included the date (six digits) roll number (two digets) and exposure number (two digits) so each exposure had an exclusive number. I would write the date and roll number on the each roll as I put it into the camera and the exposure numbers are on each transparency...

but, I changed my method in the past year to allow the automatic bulk renaming system of Bridge to assign my name, the date of exposure and also keep the file number of each exposure... the camera's file number only gives each image number an exclusive number but it takes up 8 more digits making the file names long, (a problem with some PC users having the names trunkated but I can resize my Mac windows for the full name. A typical file number would be EdBook070209-_Q6V8765 ("_Q6V" is the designation my specific camera body adds to each image... 'it's on my wish list for my next camera to allow me to assign this number but I guess it's like a serial number identifying each camera body which I think might be a good thing.

I'm not satisfied with any of the trail portraits I've made because I always feel too rushed and I guess I'm not paparazzi material... Those I posted took grunches of post processing to make them halfway decent and the vast majority were throw aways.

What I really need to do is take my own models with me and with a(an) assistant(s) with reflectors and flash control the situation and have the models do what they do over and over till I get what I want... I haven't posted any of the photos with folks actually skiing because they weren't animated enough in any of the images... they all look like they're just standing on the trail vice striding so they look like they're doing something... I ask the folks to exaggerate their strides but it doesn't seem to happen with passers by...

Peace

Peace

	From: thoughtsbykat	Date: February 9th, 2007 05:44 pm (UTC)		(Link)

Next time you will have to say please print your information. The previous commenter had a good idea too.

	From: edbook	Date: February 9th, 2007 07:10 pm (UTC)		(Link)

all of the information was printed but when folks are writing on white paper with a snow background and often bright sunlight, they can't see what they're writing and I even had a challenge reading my own usually quite distinct lettering... Zancro's advice was in my mind at the time but in the heat of photographing fleeting folks and talking to them about signing the release explaining about the release etc etc, I didn't have time to stop and put on my glasses and sunglasses and look at the number on the camera to write down at the time... and didn't remember afterward untill it was moot. When I'm in the making photos mode, not all things click in my brain so I have to concentrate on those of image-making and push some details behind for later... I'm also trying to concentrate on other images that I'll try to make in the next few seconds or minutes too... I need an assistant to take care of the non-image-making details... as well as assistants to hold flash and reflectors and for a director to direct the subjects when they aren't close and let me concentrate on composition... what you see in my posts are subjects standing posing and not skiing posing... I need models that can be directed and not passers by... and I need I need I need... (winning lottery ticket numbers too) ;)

Peace

	From: 1_stepfarther	Date: February 10th, 2007 10:45 pm (UTC)		(Link)

A trick I have used is to photograph the people with a number in the photo. It doesn't have to be a good photo, just see the people and read the number. Then write that number on the model release. Then when you get back home you can take the time to identify by clothes etc.

I have used paper, cardboard and pen, Plastic and grease pencil, just get the number in there. It may be easier if you have a little point and shoot that way you are just dealing in little jpegs and not huge files. It also may help to have the cards made out ahead of time. I used this method to shoot a basketball tournament over a whole weekend. The games were 3 at a time, and 20 minutes running clock. It took awhile to sort out (I was just sorting out teams not individuals) but I did 120 games and about 5000 shots in two days.

Hope that might help

	From: edbook	Date: February 10th, 2007 11:05 pm (UTC)		(Link)

I used to do that when I used film and was photographing some horse shows in the early '70's and didn't like wasting the film so started using an assistant to help out.

Switching to digital, all I have to do is look at the image number assigned by the camera and write it on the model release... but, I would have to take the time to put my glasses on and take the time from talking to the folks who I've interrupted in their skiing the trails... so don't do it.

What I really need to do is take my own models and have assistants with me to hold reflectors, flash, etc and do the other stuff... while I think about the next image and the next and next... etc


Peace

	From: treesofmytime	Date: February 11th, 2007 04:51 pm (UTC)		(Link)

Noted your comments about "putting you glasses back on" . I have been plagued by age related vision problems and wear varifocals because I need correction for both near and far.

When shooting, I constantly switch back and forth to wearing my glasses and not. If I adjust the diopter and go without glasses, I am slow to get them back on when I want to see data on the top LCD or the LCD menu.

When I wear glasses, I have problems seeing the exposure data in the viewfinder and I think my glasses wash out things somewhat by letting light in.

I am trying to keep my glasses on my head and "quickly" place then on when I need them for menu or button actvity.

I was actually thinking of going to Lenscrafters today to see if I could get a very small round lens pair with vari or bifocals that would let my eye seal to the viewfinder more completely.

	From: edbook	Date: February 11th, 2007 05:21 pm (UTC)		(Link)

I used to wear my reading glasses with my film camera and would use some small cloth something to cover the gap to elimimate air leaks and cover the light coming in to illuminate the inside data but don't seem to have the problem with my Canon digital.

I really dislike that so much data is on top and can't be seen both because the camera is too high and I have to view from too close. I sometimes carry a small mirror with my glasses so I can read the top data. (on my wish list is for all the data to also be displayed on the back.)

'heard you've added some long glass. Are you using a gimbal mount on your tripod?



Peace

	From: treesofmytime	Date: February 11th, 2007 05:32 pm (UTC)		(Link)

Yes thanks! I got a Jobu Heavy Duty Black Widow and a Better Beamer flash concentration device at the same time as the lens. The Jobu head seems to balance it perfectly! I still see sports shooters hand holding or using just a monopod.

	From: edbook	Date: February 11th, 2007 06:04 pm (UTC)		(Link)

I'm using a similar Wimberley gimbal that mounts on my RRS BH-55 ball head. The head is sturdy enough to support it well and I don't have to change heads to mount it. I love the BH-55 with it's large hollow and thus light head and two slots for tipping the head.

Peace

	From: myparu	Date: May 31st, 2007 11:53 am (UTC)		(Link)
	just a thought

As I was reading your post, this occurred to me:
When filling up the model release, either you or the model could put the current time (hh:mm:ss if possible) on the release so it can be correlated to the time recorded in the image file. Then you dont even need to see the file name from the camera... if you are going to have a lot of pics with same time, release documents could be numbered before hand and used in that order... dont know if that might help.

From: (Anonymous)	Date: May 31st, 2007 12:23 pm (UTC)		(Link)
Re: just a thought

the problem that we had and didn't expect was that the light was so bright that it was difficult to see what we were writing and I couldn't read a lot of it later. (a much worse problem has come up since... I can't find the container that the releases were in. I'll have to look through all the stuff again to find them...)

Peace